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Rope Rescue Techniques
Rope rescue techniques
Before I did my instructor training many years ago, I thought I knew how to get myself or climbing partner out of most sticky situations. Once I had completed my training, I realised I had no clue.
We, as climbers learn how to climb, and 99.99% of the time, all goes well. In most places we climb, we either have phone reception or there are others around who may be able to help. But what if we were in a situation where we were the only ones there, and had no phone reception to call for back-up. Then knowledge and understanding of rope rescue techniques can be a lifesaver. Let me give you a few scenarios, starting from easy to the most complicated:
- You have dropped your belay device.How do you lead belay or belay from above?
- Your friend is seconding, and is unable to do the crux move.How can he/she get past it?
- Your second has his/her arm/leg stuck, unable to free it.
- The leader has fallen, and broken a ligament, and is unable to continue climbing. They are less than half a rope length away? The climber is conscious.
- The leader has fallen, and broken a ligament, and is unable to continue climbing. They are more than half a rope length away? The climber is conscious.
- The leader has fallen, and broken a ligament, and is unable to continue climbing. They are less than half a rope length away? The climber is unconscious.
- The leader has fallen, and broken a ligament, and is unable to continue climbing. They are more than half a rope length away? The climber is unconscious.
- Now take any of the above situations, how would a traverse affect your process?How about any of these on a sea-cliff?
- The most complicated situation would be the following:
- You are belaying your friend on a multipitch sea cliff.They have traversed 35m, and have fallen and are now unconscious. They are free hanging, and are unable to assist you. You have no phone reception, and no-one is able to rescue you from nearby. What do you do? (No, you are not allowed to cut him/her down).
If you think you know the answer, feel free to email your suggestions to info@riseandsummit.co.uk, or comment on this post. If you would like to learn more about our rope rescue techniques course, follow the link below: