THE SELF REHABBED CLIMBER BOOK REVIEW

The Self-Rehabbed Climber by Andrew McVittie is an essential read for climbers of all levels.  Who understand the toll this sport can take on the body—and the potential setbacks injuries create. McVittie, a physical therapist, climbing coach and passionate climber, brings a refreshingly direct, science-backed approach to injury rehabilitation that speaks directly to the needs of both professional and recreational climbers.

As a professional climber, I’ve seen and experienced first-hand the injuries that come with pushing limits.  Finding reliable guidance on recovery is essential for longevity in the sport. Even when you are not injured, this book contains great information on tendons, muscles, and tissues.  What happens when they get overloaded, how they heal, and how injuries happen.  Powered with this information, you feel able to adjust your sessions to suit your aims, helping you on the road to prevention.

McVittie describes the more common climbing injuries he has experienced over his year as a climbing physio.  It’s filled with strategies tailored for climbing-related injuries.  Particularly finger, shoulder, and elbow issues that so often hinder performance and progression in the sport.  He provides an in-depth analysis of the shoulder, one of the body’s most complex joints.  And also addresses issues related to mid-back pain and injuries associated with heel hooks.

One of the standout features is McVittie’s emphasis on self-assessment. He gives climbers tools to understand their injuries in depth, rather than relying solely on a therapist’s perspective. This empowered approach is a game-changer; it encourages climbers to take charge of their recovery journey. With clear explanations of injury mechanisms and detailed exercises for strength and mobility.  He enables readers to develop a personalised staged rehab plan. This autonomy can be invaluable.  Especially for climbers who live far from specialised therapists or may find the financial commitment to therapy too much.

WHAT SETS IT APART?

What sets The Self-Rehabbed Climber apart is the attention to detail and the practical application of each technique. McVittie understands that most climbers don’t have access to a full rehab facility.  So he offers realistic, equipment-light options that can be done at home or at the gym. The exercises themselves are scalable, addressing needs across the spectrum—from acute injury recovery to ongoing prehab to prevent future issues.

For recreational climbers, McVittie demystifies the injury process.  And empowers readers to take ownership of their recovery without overwhelming them with technical jargon. Each chapter is laid out in digestible sections, supported by step-by-step instructions and clear illustrations. He’s excellent at bridging the gap between complex anatomy and practical action, which makes this book approachable and insightful for those new to injury rehab. Additionally, the focus on warm-ups, mobility routines, and strengthening exercises acts as a guide for those looking to develop resilience against future injuries, a smart approach for anyone climbing regularly.

For professionals, McVittie’s book is an asset for sharpening both physical and mental resilience. He doesn’t shy away from the hard truths about injury and the patience needed for recovery, an often-overlooked aspect of sports rehabilitation. Instead, he builds a framework that respects the climber’s drive to perform but tempers it with realistic timelines and evidence-based practices. His insights into proper progression, load management, and the psychological aspects of injury will resonate with pros.  Who want to understand not only how to recover but how to return to peak performance in the safest, most efficient way.

While the book covers a broad spectrum of common climbing injuries.  Some might wish it explored less typical but still prevalent issues, like hip flexibility or knee stability. However, McVittie’s targeted approach allows for focused depth on the most frequent and debilitating injuries, making this a practical, specialised tool.